The streets of New York City have long been a source of inspiration for designers, and for Fall 2023, Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore of Who Decides War are no exception. Their latest collection celebrates the unique style found on the streets of the Big Apple, with a nod to its famous grid and the graffiti that adorns its walls.
The collection’s first foray into suiting was inspired by Wall Street, with a pin-striped jacket that boasted the brand’s signature relaxed silhouette. Bravado paired it with pinstripe trousers, a hoodie, and a “Ruff Ryders Decide War” t-shirt for a high/low combo that perfectly captures the fashion equivalent of uptown and downtown.
No one can work denim quite like Who Decides War, with embroidery, elaborate distressing, lace, insets, quilting, and more. This season, a new silver foil technique was introduced, adding an extra layer of luxury. The collection also includes Victorian-inspired looks, complete with corseting and bustles, and delicate ivy embroidery inspired by tendrils that wrap around sculptures in the city.
Performance outerwear is also a highlight of the collection, with knotted rope details and 3M reflective material giving a nod to mountaineering. Puffers, a reference to the iconic Marmot Mammoth Parka, are included in the collection as an “ode to the NYC ‘biggie.'”
The location of the show, the Angel Orensanz Foundation, provided an unexpected connection to Alexander McQueen, who used the space for his Fall 1996 Dante collection. The show’s title, “Politics as Usual,” takes its name from a Jay-Z song, and the designers have been discussing fashion, politics, and access in a changing industry. Grounded by faith and guided by the mentorship of Virgil Abloh, the duo is committed to working hard and bringing as many people as possible with them.
Overall, Who Decides War’s Fall 2023 collection perfectly captures the eclectic and unique style of New York City. The mix of high and low fashion, Gothic and tender touches, and nods to the city’s history and culture create a collection that is both timely and timeless.
